Discouraging soda drinking has been a public-health aim for decades. But the beverage is still embedded in American life.

I think it’s going to be a huge thing for people to come back to,” said Sara Reid, who has run the restaurant inside the 1895 building in Steilacoom for 15 years.

Early in the morning, cars are lined up in the drive-throughs at Sonic, McDonald's and Wendy's. Regardless of weather, huge ...